Figure out where the waves are breaking and position yourself slightly beyond them.
Swim in the same direction as an approaching wave so that the wave overtakes you just before it breaks. Freestyle (crawl) is the best stroke for this.
Decide which direction (right or left) you want to ride once you feel the wave begin to grab you. It’s OK to go straight, but a much better, longer ride is achieved by heading away from the breaking part of the wave.
Stop stroking, but keep kicking. Extend one arm forward (right if you’re going right, left if you’re going left), with your palm down and breaking the surface of the water.
Streamline your body and continue riding the wave as long as desired – or until your face is plowing through sandcastles.
Here you can find a presence in the moment encounter and with the right intention and effort – fun and creativity ensues.